A new breakthrough in skincare is set to change the way people with dark skin experience mineral sunscreen. AJ Addae, a Black cosmetic chemist and chemical biology researcher at UCLA, has developed a revolutionary sunscreen that protects the skin from harmful UV rays without leaving the characteristic white cast caused by zinc oxide. This innovation makes mineral sunscreen more inclusive for those who have long struggled to find effective, comfortable sun protection.
“The best sunscreen is one that you’ll wear, and that’s really all where my motivation is for this,” Addae told ABC7, highlighting her personal mission to create products that cater to all skin tones.
Tackling the White Cast Problem
Mineral sunscreens are popular because they provide immediate protection with safer ingredients than chemical alternatives. However, many people with darker skin avoid them due to the white residue left by zinc oxide, a common UV-blocking ingredient.
To address this, Addae partnered with fellow UCLA scientist Dr. Paul S. Weiss at the Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center. Together, they analyzed why traditional zinc oxide formulations leave a “ghostly mark” on the skin. Weiss explained, “We took apart conventional sunscreens that use zinc oxide and learned that the white cast comes from agglomeration of these round, somewhat irregular particles of zinc oxide.”
Reinventing Zinc Oxide with Science
Addae and Weiss found a solution by changing the shape of the zinc oxide particles. Instead of traditional round particles that clump together, they formed the zinc oxide into tetrapods. This unique shape allows the particles to stand apart, spreading evenly across the skin and eliminating the clumping that causes a white cast.
“It forms these networks, really nice, sustained networks of zinc oxide that disperse really well and smoothly and evenly on the skin,” Addae said. The innovation not only improves cosmetic appearance but also retains the same level of UV protection as conventional sunscreens. Additionally, the formula doesn’t require solvents, making it environmentally safer.
Recognition and Entrepreneurial Success
Addae’s work has also earned her recognition in the world of entrepreneurship. She won $100,000 from Pharrell Williams’ Black Ambition Prize for her company, Sula Labs, which tests cosmetic products for major retailers including Sephora and Ulta.
“While the prize money is incredible, the win is a symbol that our hard work to close inclusivity gaps in cosmetics and personal care through science has a significant impact and scale,” Addae said upon receiving the award. Her company and research highlight the power of science to create products that are inclusive, effective, and environmentally responsible.
A More Inclusive Future for Skincare
With her no-white-cast sunscreen soon to hit the market, AJ Addae is providing Black people of all skin tones a new way to enjoy mineral sunscreen without compromise. Her work represents a meaningful step toward inclusivity in beauty and personal care, ensuring that everyone can find products that work for them.
“Making personal care fit for everyone is at the heart of what I do,” Addae said. Her innovation is a reminder that diversity in science and beauty benefits everyone, and that representation in cosmetic chemistry can lead to real, tangible solutions.
